Following an unpleasant return trip to Panama and two weeks of preparation, i.e. extensive grocery shopping and cleaning of Maya, our friends were due to arrive.
For the previous two weeks the wind conditions in Panama around Shelterbay Marina had been very unusual with F6 – 7 and high waves outside. Following a relaxing day in the marina, we decided to sail to the port of Portobelo anyway.
As soon as we left the sheltered area of the Panama Canal we were confronted by a steady F7 and 3m high waves. We were forced to motor-sail with the engine the 30 miles to the shelter of the bay of Portobelo.
The Portobelo is a naturally deep anchorage well protected from the prevailing winds. The port of Portobelo was favoured by the Spanish for the export of silver and other treasures. Naturally it was frequently attacked by pirates and occupied by, amongst others, the British.
Several forts were built to protect the port and town, but these are now in ruins. A trip to one of the forts and into the pretty little town was quite interesting. The houses are brightly painted and richly decorated.
From there we went the next day to Panamarina, just 15 miles away, a place with which we already familiar.
It is owned by a French family and known for its good French food and unique jungle location.
The next day we took the dinghy through the mangrove channel that connects Portobelo with Linton bay. Towards the end of the channel is joined by a freshwater river which is great for a swim. The water is not really fresh, but it is less salty than the surrounding sea.
This was a wonderful excursion and a refreshing break from the tropical temperatures of up to 34C.
Following another great French influenced dinner, we set off the next morning for great day’s sailing. This took us to the first of the San Blas islands, Chichime. Shortly before arriving, Angelika caught a nice tuna and our dinner was taken care of!
It was still quite windy and our anchorage was not very sheltered, so the next day we decided to sail to Morbedup. A gentle sail and when we arrived there, we were greeted by our Italian friends who had been anchored there for a while.
The entrance to Morbedup was a bit of challenge as you have to follow a shallow channel into the anchorage. We chose the quieter of the two anchorages but nearly ran the boat aground on the way in.
A trip ashore to stretch our legs and then to the pizza “hut” where an enterprising Kuna family have set up a small pizza oven. Our order for 5 pizzas was obviously a little unexpected and it took more than an hour to get them!
During the night the wind picked up again and the next day there was a lot of activity as a small French tri-maran had dragged onto the reef. There were many people helping him and we stayed out of the way. The tri-maran was dragged off the reef, but was obviously damaged and taking on water. The rescuers dragged the boat into the much shallower sandy area and hopefully they could effect repairs when the tide went out.
The next morning we left the anchorage but not before almost running aground again in almost the same place!
Our destination was a very small hop to Miriadup, which has also changed. The Kunas had built several huts and one small restaurant was also serving full meals and drinks (Coco-Loco!) and there was now a campsite. When we originally visited the island there was only one hut. You can see the constant changes and we have the impression that it is getting much more crowded here.
The next day we moved on again in very light winds to Banedup – one of our favourite places. Here there is our favorite restaurant (Ibins) run naturally enough by Ibin. He had now added a second complete jetty and more than doubled the size of the small restaurant. He was also expanding and building a “Honeymoon” hut over the sea.
Unfortunately, the isolated atmosphere is being lost more and more. Of course, it is understandable that the Kunas also want to profit from the visiting yachts and tourists.
After two and a half weeks, Heide & Jochen leave us in a water taxi, and we sail back to Shelterbay Marina in two hops with Peter & Brigitte. Whilst motoring into the first stop at Linton Bay we suddenly smelled burning rubber. We stopped the engine and checked the engine room. It quickly became apparent that one the engine v-belts had broken. Luckily “Maya” has a large stock of spare parts to cover events like this.
The next day was an uneventful motor-sail back to Shelterbay Marina to get the boat ready for the upcoming Panama canal transit.
